Bocas del Toro: Diving and Docks in Panama
Bocas Town on Isla Colon in Bocas del Toro is full of three-story wooden buildings in various states of repair. I spent three days underwater and three nights perched on dock balconies overhanging the Sea, surrounded by the spectacular beauty of Panama’s Carribean.
Getting There:
I was briefcasing through Panama City for a couple of days in August leading into a long weekend with a holiday looming on the following Monday. I had planned to take Friday off to make it a four-day weekend. Alas, when your briefcasing around the world, plans are always written in pencil. Rather than making my way to visit the Panama Canal museum, I headed downtown to visit a company promoting financial inclusion among small businesses in Panama.
A few hours later I was off to the airport. My flight for Bocas del Toro was from the smaller Albrook Airport, and not the Tocumen International Airport into which I had arrived to Panama City from San Jose. Note that you may not find your Panama Air flight on Booking or Expedia. Be sure to check the company’s flight schedule on their website.
I settled into my seat on the plane and started shuffling through notes, reviewing my plans for the weekend. After the propellers started spinning, the women next to me sternly encouraged me to put my phone away. It turns out she was terrified of flying, a rather unfortunate fact given her frequent trips between Bocas del Toro and Panama City. She was from Venezuela and is one of the swelling diaspora population from that country in light of the economic disaster that continues to unfold there. Her fear of flying manifested itself in a barrage of conversation. About an hour later she was grabbing my arm as we bumped our way through the turbulance to land in Bocas Town.
Staying There:
Selina
As I have on several occassions briefcasing through Central America, I made my way to the Selina Hostel on arrival. Bocas Town occupies the small whale-tail-shaped southern bit of Isla Colon. The airport’s runway fills about two-thirds the length of this part of the island from west to east. After disembarking I threw my bag over my shoulder, waved goodbye to my work colleagues and walked five minutes to the other end of town.
Selina is one of those three story wooden buildings I mentioned earlier. The bottom floor features the restaraunt bar on the docks where I enjoyed a Piña Colada every day after diving. I climbed to my third-floor private, bathroom-equipped room, changed and then set off for a bite to eat.
Hotel Bocas
On my way for lunch, I strolled past Hotel Bocas. The building stood out because my Venezuelan friend on the plane had indicated a man in the front row, identifying him as the owner. Right on the water and freshly and colourfully painted, it looked like a fine place to rest your head if you’d prefer somewhere a bit quieter.
Eating and Drinking There:
Amaranto
Every morning in Bocas Town I stopped by Amaranto on my way to diving classes. A kind 30-something pair served coffee and smoothies in the cozy cafe. I always left happily sipping on the same chia-seed infused fruit concoction.
Cafe del Mar
Right next to Amaranto, I ventured in on my last morning after peering through the dark windows of the closed Amaranto. The only guest, I greedily devoured by panini before reclining to sip on my fruit adorned smoothy while reading the local newspaper.
Buena Vista
If you’re looking for a more upscale meal in Bocas Town, look no further. Like almost everywhere in town, the restaraunt is perched on a dock next the Carribean Sea.
Street Vendors
After a few drinks on the docks with new friends from the hostel, a quick bite is not hard to find on the streets of Bocas Town.
Doing There:
During my three days in Bocas, I quickly settled into a rhythm: Scuba dive, piña colada, nap, dockside drinks, repeat.
Go Scuba Diving
My weekend in Bocas del Toro was planned around the three day Open Water Certification. Learning to scuba dive in Panama was an unforgettable experience. Bocas Dive Centre was a modern professional place with a great team of instructors during my time there.
Go for a walk in Bocas Town
Bocas Town is a small place tucked into a corner of Isla Colon. You can walk the whole of it in an hour. I enjoyed strolling through the central park to the grocery store on a few occassions during my stay. Many of these stores were owned by Chinese Panamanians, which initially suprised me. In fact, there is a notable Chinese population just across the border in Puerto Viejo in Caribbean Costa Rica as well. While there I watched a dragon dance during a parade, reminding me of parades back home in Vancouver. Chinese immigrants have been arriving in Panama since the mid 19th cenutry with an estimated 200,000 individuals of Chinese hertage in Panama today.
Go Island Hopping
Locals operate small boats that ferry people between Isla Colon, Isla Carenero, Isla Bastimentos, and others. One evening I decided to go for a boat ride to Isla Carenero. With a cerveza Panama in hand, I hopped aboard and off we went carving through the Carribean Sea.
Night Life
Of the small towns I’ve been to in Central America, Bocas Town was among the best for a party. At Summer, glow in the dark face paint, and neon lights set the mood on the raised dance floor next to the DJ booth. On a Sunday night at Iguana I enjoyed drinks on the docks and was astonished when I spotted a sting ray (the same one I saw while diving?) gliding past an opening in the centre of the dock. Aqua Lounge on Isla Carnero takes centre stage on Filthy Fridays. It was well attended by all accounts but I have nothing to report since avoiding alliterative advertising of alcoholic activities is an emerging tenant of my travel philosophy.
Final Thought:
Bocas del Toro is stunning. So much so that Christopher Columbus (Cristobal Colon) named the largest of the islands, Isla Colon, for himself on his final voyage to the Americas. I spent most of my time diving and on the docks and so only got a glimpse of the place. I left with the sense that there is so much more to see: starfish beaches, surfing, nature retreats, and kayaking to beautiful rock formations as a start. Still I left happy. Throwing my briefcase over my shoulder and my new Open Water Diver certificate in my pocket, I wandered past rickety wooden buildings and street vendors to the airport tarmac to continue the pursuit.
