Home to a third of Peruvians, Lima surrounds a large bay on the Pacific Coast of South America. From there it sprawls in every direction. Squeezed between the Pacific and the Andes, it is one of the dryest capital cities in the world. Nevertheless it is often adorned with a persistent thin layer of cloud from which it earned it’s nickname: El Gris. 

Getting There:

Lima was the first place I ever travelled in South America in 2016. In total I’ve spent a couple of months in Lima for work and to study at the Peruwayna Spanish School. 

First Impressions of Lima

You will quickly feel comfortable in the city, but it can be an intimidating place at first glance. If you arrive during the day you’ll be impressed by two facts: the city is huge (the fifth largest in Latin America), and the city is dry. Both of these initial impressions will be at odds with your experience in the city where you will spend most of your time in a couple of districts (making the city feel smaller), and by the ocean or in the abundant parks (making the city feel greener).  

Arriving in Lima

In my experience, Latin America is full of lovely well-situated airports. They are usually pleasantly outside of the city or conveniently close to the downtown core. Lima is an exception. The Jorge Chavez International Airport is situated on the northern edge of the Callao district. If you arrive during the day, you will be plunged into heavy and chaotic traffic upon leaving the airport. However it is nice that you can buy your taxi ticket at a counter before entering the main arrivals area.  I usually go with Green Taxi and the driver will escort you outside to an awaiting car. 

Staying There:

From the airport you’ll make your way south from Callao, through San Miguel before turning right and getting onto the Costa del Verde Cicuito de Playas road. The road runs parallel to the Pacific Ocean as green vines race up towering cliffs to your left. If you’re backpacking in Lima you will almost certainly want to stay in Barranco, or Miraflores. For fellow briefcasers, the main business district, San Isidro, is also an option. I’ve also spent time in Lince, Surco, Pueblo Libre, Surquillo, and the historic centre on my various trips to the city. 

Miraflores

Miraflores is framed around Avenida Larco which runs through its centre between Larcomar (a large modern mall built into the cliffs along the Pacific Ocean) and the cat-filled Parque Kennedy. It is a safe and busy hub for entertainment in Peru’s capital. You’ll find many great apartments for rent on Airbnb in this part of the city.  For quick stops in the city, I often stay at the Ibis Larco Hotel on Avenida Larco. It is in a great location, and has small but comfortable rooms.

Barranco

For a more bohemian vibe, follow the Malecon south from Miraflores to Barranco. Get your bearings at Plaza de Armas Barranco. It is bordered by the Iglesia de la Santisima Cruz and the municipal government building along with an array of cafes. Make your way to the 19th century wooden Puente de los Suspiros, passing groups playing music and dancing in the plaza. Next, find a spot on the porch of either Chala or Santos to contemplate the bridge over a meal. Then continue your walk down some stairs to the street below (Bajada de Baños). Stop in at El Gato to mingle over a drink, a late night snack, and to dance Salsa. Like Miraflores, there are lots of options for staying in Barranco. Having never done so myself I’ll leave recommendations to others. 

San Isidro

On my first briefcasing trip through Lima I stayed in San Isidro, which neighbours Miraflores to the north. Despite their proximity, traffic in Lima can make getting from one to the other at peak hours an unpleasant experience. Happily, San Isidro itself is full of cafe’s, parks, gyms, and restaurants so staying here on a short business trip is a good option.

Eating and Drinking There:

Lima has gained a reputation for its food, a fusion of traditions drawing from indigenous, Spanish, Japanese and other influences.  Don’t pass through the city without making at least one reservation for dinner. 

Amaz

Large round wooden tables under creative dry-leaf and textile light fixtures, Amaz will be included in any informed conversation about the best restaurants in Lima. It is in the heart of Miraflores next to the Hilton Hotel. However, Amaz’s aesthetic and menu reflect’s Peru’s north-eastern Amazonian region. A huge painting of a a jungle sunset, a prowling jaguar statue, and plants distributed tastefully throughout the restaurant all add to the ambience. I met some friends from my Spanish school here on one of our last nights in the city. We celebrated with Pisco Sours and fried plantain stuffed with meat and cheese.

Punto Azul

It would be a mistake to spend time in Lima without eating Ceviche, a Peruvian classic. Ceviche is diced Tilapia fish, cooked in the acidity of lime juice, spiced with cilantro, red onions, and a touch of chilli, and served with sweet corn and sweet potato. Punto Azul is one place you might go to try it. You’ll find several locations in the city, including in Miraflores.

Cala

Just off the highway on the beach in Barranco you’ll find this chic and modern restaurant. On entering, walk up the stairs and then past diners sitting at round tables adorned with white tablecloths. Make your way towards the floor to ceiling windows and pass elegant white curtains into a pleasingly illuminated balcony. Enjoy a dinner there accompanied by the symphony of the undertow dragging water over millions of rocks on the shore below. I had the Lomo Saltado, another Peruvian classic: stir fried beef, tomato, and onion served with yellow potato along with corn and rice.

Isolina Taberna Peruana

A two minute walk north of Plaza Barranco on Avenida San Martin, Isolina is in an old home and offers a culinary experience aimed at the nostalgia of home cooked meals with a Peruvian twist.  

Before or after your dinner, you may want to meet for a Pisco or local craft beer. Here are a few suggestions. 

La Barbarian Bar and La Cachina Bar

Stop in for an craft beer at Barbarian on Calle Manuel Bonilla at the northern tip of Parque Kennedy in Miraflores. Or head next door to La Cachina, a great place for a cocktail. Grab a seat at the bar and watch the bartender prepare your drink in front of you. Make sure to arrive a bit earlier in the evening if you want a seat at either place. 

Bodega Piselli

Tucked in a quiet corner just south of the Plaza Barranco, this place has an old-time feel with small tables sitting under well-stocked glass cabinets, and old photos. 

Bazar and La Destilería

Just west of Parque Kennedy in Miraflores you’ll find Calle Berlin and all sorts of places for a drink. These are two of my favorites. Bazar is spacious with high ceilings and an excellent place for a strong Chilcano. I’d recommend a reservation. If you can’t get in however, there are lots of options nearby including La Destileria where you can pull up a stool at the long granite bar and choose from an assortment of cocktails. 

Huaringas Bar

Huaringas is my favorite place in the city for a Pisco. Located a little aways from the main clusters of bars and restaurants, but still in Miraflores, this is a multi-level venue in an old stone building. You’ll feel at home briefcasing around the world here as you join a young crowd for an after work drink. I’d recommend the Maracuya Sour! 

Tostaduria Bisetti

If you feel like a hot drink, this is a great place in Plaza Barranco for a tea infusion. Peer at the specials list as you walk past the iron gates and through the wooden front door before being shown to a sofa in cozy corner of this small cafe. 

Doing There:

Go for a Walk on the Malecon

Lima is full of green spaces. Every time I arrive, one of the first things I do is make my way to the Malecon, a long path that traces the cliffs from Miraflores to Barranco overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Along the way you can stop in the Parque del Amor or any other of the many that line the route to grab an ice cream or relax and watch the sunset paint the sky red over the endless horizon. 

Go to Huaca Pucllana

On a hot day at the beginning of Lima’s summer I joined a tour of what remains of the pre-Incan ruins known as Huaca Pucllana. Successfully built to withstand seismic activity, the sight is a testament to the Lima culture that dates back hundreds of years.

Go to Museo Larco

Museo Larco is my favorite museum in Lima. In the Pueblo Libre district, it contains a remarkable collection of ancient artefacts. The museum tells the story of the various people and cultures that have graced what we now know as Peru. The museum also contains the not-to-be-missed erotic gallery, featuring pre-Columbian ceramics revealing the sexuality of ancient cultures and inhabitants. Apart from its astonishing collections and beautiful storytelling, the museum itself is beautiful. White walled and surrounded by well-maintained gardens, I could spend 30 minutes walking around the outside of the museum and think it worth the trip. 

Go to the Historic Centre

About 30 minutes north of Miraflores by the Rimac River, I thoroughly enjoy strolling through the narrow streets of old Lima. Its streets feature overhanging colonial balconies that open up into huge plazas lined with churches, palaces, and other stately buildings.  On my most recent stop in the historic centre, I paid a visit to the House of Peruvian Literature after sipping on a Pisco in the nearby restaurant Cordano. While waiting to meet my friend, I wandered across the street to the Museo de Bodega y Quadra. The museum is the former home of Juan Francisco de la Bodega, one of the first Europeans to “discover” Vancouver Island in Canada. A nice connection to home in an unexpected place. 

Go to the Teatro de Lucia

Lima isn’t particularly known for the performing arts. However, one day when I was walking near Parque Kennedy on Calle Bellavista this small theatre caught my eye.  I bought tickets and found myself settling in to see a play later that night after Spanish class. The play was El Rostro. Written by Ricardo Olivares the three-person play told the story about a Peruvian archeologist returning home. Its central drama is the protagonists’ reflection on his past, how he decided to become an archeologist and his memories of his mother. It is a beautiful story about the confusion of childhood, the sacrifices made by parents, and the impact that both can have on our lives. 

Go to the Parque de la Reserva

The city renovated this historic but out repair park about a decade ago and have created a beautiful automated show of light, water, and music every night. Arrive early and walk through the park, under arching water fountains and through water mazes. After the sun sets, find a bench, grab food from a nearby stand and enjoy the show.

Go Dancing

If you need to get moving after a long week, Lima has lot’s of options. I didn’t particularly enjoy Bizarro, an expensive but in vogue spot off Calle Berlin.  Rather, I’d recommend Subte just off of Avenida Larco, which had a much larger dance floor and a crowd serious about using it. You could also check out Mute in Surco.

Go to the Beach

Beaches in Miraflores and Barranco

A unique aspect of Lima among large cities is that you can walk to the beach and go surfing. I wandered down with a German friend one day after Spanish Class. Renting my equipment on the beach, I soon stumbled my way over the stones into the water.  As I paddled out and waited for the right wave I glanced up and watched the paragliders above and enjoyed the view of Lima’s cliff-lined coast.

Punta Hermosa

For a sandy beach you can head south to Punta Hermosa. On a couple of occasions I’ve hired an Uber and made my way there for the day. As you drive through southern Lima and arrive to the beach you’ll notice  your surroundings change, and become a little more raw and rough. I’d recommend going with someone on your first time. There is a nice boardwalk with restaurants and a few places to stay near Playa Blanca. A little further south on the Antigua Panamerica Sur there are a number of clubs that Limeños frequent on the weekends. For example, Szimpla is a beautiful two-floored and spacious open air club with an island bar. As a live band started playing salsa part way through the night, I shuffled off the dance floor to a small stand selling pizzas in the corner and watched the best of the pairs. 

A Final Thought:

Lima is a city of layers. I’ve travelled to Lima four times in the past two years and each time discovered a new one. After initial anxious impressions driving through frenzied traffic from the airport, Lima quickly felt familiar for me. I suspect that its being anchored to the Pacific Ocean helped create that feeling, giving the sense of a connection with my Pacific Northwest home in Vancouver. It is a city I often think about and to which I long to return. Meanwhile, my responsibilities draw me elsewhere in the course of my ceaseless pursuit.